Friday, October 9, 2009

Cannondale Fork mod

Recently picked up a cannondale racing frame and fork off of ebay for $230. It is light, by far the lightest bike i have ever owned. It is fairly stiff also. It had some issues: slight misalignment issues, wore-out dropouts, a bunch of corrision spots under the paint. But, for the most part a well made frame that rides nice and is fun to ride, and will make an excellent racing bike..

It came with an integrated headset. It seemed like something was missing, like there should be some sort of "fork plate" (some called it a "base plate"?.. ). No-one could tell me, nor could i find anything that said or showed what needed to go there. Most said the Bearing just goes right on the carbon fiber.

The engineer in me said no-way, poor design.. i don't like high point loads into "plastic"... So i managed to make an aluminum "base" on my lathe. It was very delicate machining. Had to keep it thin and get the angles correct. Came out nice ! I took some short carbon fibers (made by "trimming" carbon fiber cloth), mixed with epoxy and used that under and in between.




I also added slight shim from a soda can.



2014 comments.  The baseplate is still on the fork.  the soda can diametrical shim ?  silly :)  The frame and fork I still have.  A few more dents and dings...:)  Its been hanging up for a year or two, but its about to come back into service....  

Scraping House

Here's what i was up to in September. Takes way too much time! Looks really nice now with paint on it though !

This side was really bad, and the paint was really thick and cracked, so I took it all off. I have two huge garbage bags full of paint scraping just from this side of the house and only about 2/3rds up. Some of the siding needed repair also...

The rest of the house will get a normal scraping and paint!




2014 comments.  The house was sold last summer, and where I "scraped" with the Infared heater, and repainted: the paint was still perfect !  So probably worth the extra work in the long run.  By the way that was Fir siding not Cedar.. 

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Fixing a Rear Dropout

Fixing a rear dropout does not require replacement. This method is quick, and precise and strong. Timewise, shouldn't take more then 15 minutes to 30 minutes. This one took a little longer because i also drilled out the helicoil thread repair and brazed in a proper 10x1mm "sleeve" made from a nut.

Here is a pic after i straightened it best i could. I considered welding the crack as is, but i wouldn't have been able to get it straight.

Here i broke it. The big advantage then was i was then able to fix the thread and also face it in the lathe.
Next came proper alignment achieved by using two axles, nuts and visegrips.

Next i simply stick welded it with. Weld very hot and fast, chipped slag, and hit it again, and repeated 3 or 4 times until it looked good. Filed it flat (not shown) and was done. Will now work perfectly. This will be my sweethearts bike someday.., an old but cute and sturdy Bridgestone RB-1 road frame that i picked up for $40..


2014 comments.  As I look back at some of the things I did, this one was actually really good work, a great quality repair... .  I ended up not doing anything with this frame, and finally sold it, and hopefully it is being ridden around by a Portland hipster :)